Dryer Problems You Can Fix
Things to Check Before Calling the Repairman About Your Dryer
If your clothes dryer is not working correctly, there are dryer problems you can fix before you call the repairman.
Dryer will not run
Is it plugged in? This seems so simple but countless repairmen have said that's often all it takes to make an appliance work again.
Dryer will not run and it's plugged in
Check your central home electrical box to see if a fuse has blown or a circuit breaker has been tripped. You may be able to replace the fuse or turn the circuit breaker back on. If this happens frequently, call an electrician immediately!
Dryer is making a terrible noise
Stop the drying cycle and check the contents. Are all buckles fastened? Are zippers zipped? Are there "extra" items - coins, wallets, keys - taking a spin?
Still noisy? It could be the motor or a broken drive belt.
Clothes are taking too long to dry
Check the lint filter. If the lint filter is loaded, air will not flow freely and your machine is forced to work longer than necessary.
If the filter is full, you may also have lint trapped between the dryer drum and the filter. Use a long-bristled brush to clean out the trapped lint. You'll get your dryer working more efficiently and prevent a possible fire.
Filter is clean and clothes won't dry
If your filter is clean, the dryer is heating up but it is still taking too long to dry clothing; there are two things to check.
- Is the dryer exhaust hose kinked or clogged? Use that long-handled bristle brush to clean out the dryer hose. Ideally, the hose should be as short as possible between the machine and the outside exhaust vent to prevent clogging.
- Now, go outside and check the outside vent. Most are designed with a trap door that only opens when dryer air - and lint - are blown out. If the vent hood and/or trap door gets coated with lint, the trap door can't open. This is often a problem in high humidity climates. Check it every few months, you'll be amazed at the amount of lint you find. If it helps you to place a reminder on your calendar, then do it.
No clue what's wrong
When all else fails, pull out the operating manual and read it. The manual may have something specific for your model of dryer to check out. Misplaced the manual? Visit the manufacturer's website and having the model number handy will probably help. It may take a little time but it's much less expensive than a repair call.
Still no clue
One last thing to do before calling a repairman is to visit online appliance repair sites for any suggestions.
Washer Problems You Can Fix
Washer problems you can correct before you call the repairman.
Washer won't run
Is it plugged in? Countless repairman have found the washer was not plugged in and all it took was to re-seat the plug into the electrical socket.
Washer won't run and it's plugged in
Has a fuse or circuit breaker blown? Check the electrical box. If needed, replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. If it continues to blow fuses or circuit breakers, call an electrician immediately. Be safe.
Washer will not fill with water
Check both the hot and cold water supply lines to ensure both are open. Some washers will not run unless both are open, even if you only use cold water. If the machine fills with water very slowly, one or both values may be partially open, open them all the way.
Water valves are open and the washer will not fill
If the supply valves are open, and the washer will not fill, a water filter may be clogged. (1) Unplug the machine. (2) Turn the water valves to the closed position. (3) Find a bucket to catch the water remaining in the hoses. (4) One at a time, unscrew the hoses from the machine, emptying the bucket after each one as needed. (5) Check the filter for clogs and remove the clogs as needed. If you can only partially clean the filter, plan to purchase and install a replacement. (6) Reconnect the hoses, slowly open the water supply valves, and check to make sure there are no leaks.
Washer is making a terrible thumping noise
This is often the result of the contents of the wash unevenly distributed around the agitator, creating an out of balance condition. It could be from uneven loading or from the contents shifting during the wash. Always attempt to load the washer evenly at the start of a load of laundry. If thumping occurs during a washing cycle, just stop the machine, redistribute the clothing and restart the machine.
Water puddles on the floor
Check the connection of the water supply hoses to the values. Tighten the connections if you find any dampness. Look at the hoses, if you find small splits, replace immediately (probably both hot and cold at the same time for peace of mind). Take the hose in your hand and squeeze. If it feels soft or soft in some areas and not in others, replace immediately. Burst hoses can create expense clean-up depending on what is near your washer. Water supply hoses should be checked regularly and replaced as needed to prevent bursting.
Soapy puddles on the floor
Front loading machines are designed to use a low suds detergent, sometimes called a high efficiency (HE) detergent. Check the detergent you are using and switch if needed.
Front loading machines also have an overflow system, typically on the back of the machine. Excess suds could be escaping thru the overflow system.
Clothes are still wet after spin cycle
If your clothing is sopping wet after the spin cycle, the water is not exiting the machine as intended. First check the water exhaust hose for bends or kinks that could prevent the water from exiting. If your machine moves around during the spin cycle, it could have kinked the hose.
Second, if the exhaust hose has a lint trap, check to see it is clogged. If it is clogged, clean or replace the lint trap.
Third, the exhaust hose could be clogged with lint or hair. The hose can be cleaned with a long flexible brush. If you cannot find one at the hardware store, check the pet shop for one used to clean aquarium tubes.
No clue what's wrong
When all else fails, read the instructions in the operating manual. Find it and read it. It could have something specific to your model of machine that is not covered in these guidelines. If you can't find it, check the manufacturer's website.
Still no clue
One last thing to do before calling a repairman is to visit on line appliance repair sites.
Refrigerator Problems You Can Fix
How to Repair a Refrigerator?
If your refrigerator breaks down, you need to know how to get it fixed as soon as possible or risk losing everything inside. The main thing is to know what you need to try to fix.
Before you call the repairman, or roll up your own sleeves, make some initial cursory checks. That way you do not embarrass yourself later. Ensure that the appliance is, indeed, plugged in. Also, double check the circuit breaker.
Next inspect the fans on the appliance. If they are dirty, vacuum them off. Dirt sometimes clogs the fans and inhibits the appliance’s ability to cool itself.
Let’s examine fixes for specific problems.
If your fridge is not cooling:
The problem could be a problem with the gasket or dirty coils.
Gasket Repair
You will know you have a gasket problem if you run this basic test. Put a dollar bill between the gasket—which is a rubber seal around the door—and the fridge itself. If the dollar bill comes out easily, then you need to replace the gasket.
Go to your local hardware store and buy a gasket that is specific to the make and model of your refrigerator. Resist the temptation, to buy a one-size-fits-all gasket. You should pick up a large cooler and some ice too. You will need the gasket to sit in your kitchen for twenty-four hours. Doing so will allow it to adjust to the humidity and room temperature, in the room.
Take off the fasteners that secure the gasket in place. Remove the old gasket and discard.
Clean the area with gentle detergent. Make sure to take off the old adhesive.
Begin working the new gasket onto the door by starting at one end and working toward the other. Smooth out the gasket and apply the cement that came with it. Then put the fasteners onto the new gasket. Close the door and check the seal. If it is off, then make adjustments as needed.
Condenser coils
These are located on the bottom front of your appliance. Pull of the grill on the bottom and get down on your stomach to check out the coil. It is a black tube that runs back and forth.
At this point, you will need a brush from your hardware store specifically made for this job. It will cost you less than a fiver. It is called a condenser coil brush.
You will take this brush and run it back and forth along the coil to free the lint, dirt, dust, and random items that have rolled under the fridge.
Once you are finished, replace the grill and give the appliance time to begin properly again.
Condenser Fan
This fan is located below the appliance. You will need to remove the grill below and get down on your stomach to find it. Clean the blades of the fan, which often become caked with lint and soil. If you clean it and the blades are not turning, spray a little WD40 on it. Take your hand and turn the blades as you spray. That should start the fan running again.
If you have done these steps and the fan is not spinning, then you will need to remove it. Take it with you to the hardware store, so you can purchase a new one.
If your fridge leaks in front of the appliance:
Safety First
If you are going to repair your fridge yourself, unplug the power to avoid electric shock.
Drain Pan
Find the Drain Pan. It is located on the bottom of the fridge, underneath the grill, in front of the refrigerator. The grill snaps out of place. Remove it. Pull the drain pan toward you. Empty the pan into the sink and then inspect for holes. If you do not find any holes, double check the pan by filling it with tap water and observing whether it leaks. If you need to replace the drain pain, simply take the damaged one into a hardware store. Once you have purchased a new one, slide it back into the spot under the fridge. Replace the grill.
Many things on your refrigerator will require notice of a professional. But the problems discussed above can be done at home with little difficulty.
Dryer Safety Video from MSNBC's Today Show (4 minutes, 37 seconds):
Refrigerator Problems You Can Fix
Refrigerator problems you can correct before you call the repairman.
If your refrigerator breaks down, you need to know how to get it fixed as soon as possible or risk losing everything inside. The main thing is to know what you need to try to fix.
Before you call the repairman, or roll up your own sleeves, make some initial cursory checks. That way you do not embarrass yourself later. Ensure that the appliance is, indeed, plugged in. Also, double check the circuit breaker.
Next inspect the fans on the appliance. If they are dirty, vacuum them off. Dirt sometimes clogs the fans and inhibits the appliance’s ability to cool itself.
Let’s examine fixes for specific problems.
If your fridge is not cooling:
The problem could be a problem with the gasket or dirty coils.
Gasket Repair
You will know you have a gasket problem if you run this basic test. Put a dollar bill between the gasket—which is a rubber seal around the door—and the fridge itself. If the dollar bill comes out easily, then you need to replace the gasket.
Go to your local hardware store and buy a gasket that is specific to the make and model of your refrigerator. Resist the temptation, to buy a one-size-fits-all gasket. You should pick up a large cooler and some ice too. You will need the gasket to sit in your kitchen for twenty-four hours. Doing so will allow it to adjust to the humidity and room temperature, in the room.
Take off the fasteners that secure the gasket in place. Remove the old gasket and discard.
Clean the area with gentle detergent. Make sure to take off the old adhesive.
Begin working the new gasket onto the door by starting at one end and working toward the other. Smooth out the gasket and apply the cement that came with it. Then put the fasteners onto the new gasket. Close the door and check the seal. If it is off, then make adjustments as needed.
Condenser coils
These are located on the bottom front of your appliance. Pull of the grill on the bottom and get down on your stomach to check out the coil. It is a black tube that runs back and forth.
At this point, you will need a brush from your hardware store specifically made for this job. It will cost you less than a fiver. It is called a condenser coil brush.
You will take this brush and run it back and forth along the coil to free the lint, dirt, dust, and random items that have rolled under the fridge.
Once you are finished, replace the grill and give the appliance time to begin properly again.
Condenser Fan
This fan is located below the appliance. You will need to remove the grill below and get down on your stomach to find it. Clean the blades of the fan, which often become caked with lint and soil. If you clean it and the blades are not turning, spray a little WD40 on it. Take your hand and turn the blades as you spray. That should start the fan running again.
If you have done these steps and the fan is not spinning, then you will need to remove it. Take it with you to the hardware store, so you can purchase a new one.
If your fridge leaks in front of the appliance:
Safety First
If you are going to repair your fridge yourself, unplug the power to avoid electric shock.
Drain Pan
Find the Drain Pan. It is located on the bottom of the fridge, underneath the grill, in front of the refrigerator. The grill snaps out of place. Remove it. Pull the drain pan toward you. Empty the pan into the sink and then inspect for holes. If you do not find any holes, double check the pan by filling it with tap water and observing whether it leaks. If you need to replace the drain pain, simply take the damaged one into a hardware store. Once you have purchased a new one, slide it back into the spot under the fridge. Replace the grill.
Many things on your refrigerator will require notice of a professional. But the problems discussed above can be done at home with little difficulty.
Dryer Safety Video from MSNBC's Today Show (4 minutes, 37 seconds):
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/21134540/vp/26507771#26507771
How to Repair Your Dishwasher
By: Kent Pinkerton
1) If your dishwasher doesn't seem to be working at all, first check the plug and the circuit breaker. If these are working, check the door switch, timer, and selector switch. If any of these three items are broken, replace them. If all of these check out, the problem is internal and the wiring must be replaced. Call a technician.
2) If the dishes aren't getting clean, there might not be enough water coming into the machine. There might even be no water at all. Check the water shut-off valve under the kitchen sink to make sure it’s on. Otherwise, the machine might have a faulty internal water valve and will need professional service. Before you call to get the internal water valve serviced, however, try checking the spray arms for clogs, and unclogging them by hand if necessary. Once you’ve done this, see if the water is hot enough. Cool or cold water won’t clean dishes. Be sure the water temperature is at least 120. If your dishes still won't get clean, try adding soap to both soap cups. Furthermore, if there is a smoky film on your dishes, it means your water is "hard". You will need to clean your dishwasher with a dishwasher cleaner. Use one that is specially formulated by your dishwasher’s manufacturer, or use a quality cleaner such as Washer Magic, Dishwasher Magic, Glisten (which also acts as a deodorizer and can be used in any porcelain-lined machine or tub), or Glass Magic.
3) If your dishwasher won't drain, there are seven lucky things you can do before calling an expert. First, check the air gap of the sink, near the faucet, and unclog it if necessary. Unscrew the top cap and rinse it well. Second, check the drain hose leading from the air gap to the garbage disposal. Clean it out and reattach it. Third, if your dishwasher uses a belt to drive the pump, and the pump doesn't seem to be working, try replacing the drive belt. It may be broken or stretched out. Fourth, for models that have both a wash impeller and a drain impeller, the drain impeller might be broken, either at the shaft or at the blades. Replace the broken parts of the drain impeller. Fifth, some dishwashers use a drain solenoid to drain the water. This might be stuck. Try loosening it by hand. If that doesn't work, replace the pump assembly. Sixth, perhaps the motor is stuck. Try getting the motor going by spinning it by hand. If that doesn't work, replace the motor. Finally, if the wash timer is busted, you’ll have to replace it.
If you follow these basic tips, you'll have a good, solid start in becoming a dishwasher repair expert on your own.
How to Repair Your Dishwasher
By: Kent Pinkerton
1) If your dishwasher doesn't seem to be working at all, first check the plug and the circuit breaker. If these are working, check the door switch, timer, and selector switch. If any of these three items are broken, replace them. If all of these check out, the problem is internal and the wiring must be replaced. Call a technician.
2) If the dishes aren't getting clean, there might not be enough water coming into the machine. There might even be no water at all. Check the water shut-off valve under the kitchen sink to make sure it’s on. Otherwise, the machine might have a faulty internal water valve and will need professional service. Before you call to get the internal water valve serviced, however, try checking the spray arms for clogs, and unclogging them by hand if necessary. Once you’ve done this, see if the water is hot enough. Cool or cold water won’t clean dishes. Be sure the water temperature is at least 120. If your dishes still won't get clean, try adding soap to both soap cups. Furthermore, if there is a smoky film on your dishes, it means your water is "hard". You will need to clean your dishwasher with a dishwasher cleaner. Use one that is specially formulated by your dishwasher’s manufacturer, or use a quality cleaner such as Washer Magic, Dishwasher Magic, Glisten (which also acts as a deodorizer and can be used in any porcelain-lined machine or tub), or Glass Magic.
3) If your dishwasher won't drain, there are seven lucky things you can do before calling an expert. First, check the air gap of the sink, near the faucet, and unclog it if necessary. Unscrew the top cap and rinse it well. Second, check the drain hose leading from the air gap to the garbage disposal. Clean it out and reattach it. Third, if your dishwasher uses a belt to drive the pump, and the pump doesn't seem to be working, try replacing the drive belt. It may be broken or stretched out. Fourth, for models that have both a wash impeller and a drain impeller, the drain impeller might be broken, either at the shaft or at the blades. Replace the broken parts of the drain impeller. Fifth, some dishwashers use a drain solenoid to drain the water. This might be stuck. Try loosening it by hand. If that doesn't work, replace the pump assembly. Sixth, perhaps the motor is stuck. Try getting the motor going by spinning it by hand. If that doesn't work, replace the motor. Finally, if the wash timer is busted, you’ll have to replace it.
If you follow these basic tips, you'll have a good, solid start in becoming a dishwasher repair expert on your own.
Geothermal System Provides Lowest Residential Utility Bills
By: James Dulley
From: Detroit Free Press, Sunday 3 October 2010, page 1F
Dear Jim: My house needs a new heating and cooling system. I thought about installing a geothermal heat pump for its efficiency and the tax credit. How efficient is one and what features should I look for? – Colin L.
Dear Collin: A geothermal heat pump is very efficient and usually provides the lowest utility bills of any residential heating and cooling system available. In the heating mode, a geothermal heat pump can reduce up to five dollars worth of heat to your house for each dollar on your electric bill. This is called a COP (coefficient of performance) of five.
In the cooling air-conditioning mode during the summer, some geothermal heat pumps, such as the WaterFurnace Envision model, produce an EER (energy-efficient ratio) as high as 30. This is significantly higher than the best central air-conditioners and about twice that of many new models.
For most families, installing a geothermal heat pump makes economic sense even though its initial cost is significantly more expensive than a standard air-to-air heat pump. The cost of the installation depends upon the geothermal heat pump capacity, the type of ground loop needed and the topography of your yard.
The federal income tax credit is significant and there may also be state and local tax credits and rebates from your electric utility company. For 2010, you can receive a tax credit of 30% of the cost of your geothermal heat pump with no maximum limit. The tax credit on most other energy-efficient improvements to your home is limited to $1500. The efficiency of the system must exceed current Energy Star requirements to qualify.
As a brief background, a geothermal heat pump draws its heat during the winter from the ground. This is typically accomplished with an underground loop of piping. Instead of having to try to draw heat from cold winter air, the geothermal heat pump draws heat from the loop, which stays at a fairly constant warm temperature.
During summer, the concept is reversed. Instead of having to try to transfer heat from inside your house to hot summer outdoor air, it transfers this heat more efficient efficiently to the much-cooler ground loop. If you install a desuper-heater feature, this summertime waste heat from cooling your house can be directed to your water heater for free, hot water. The heat pump can also heat your hot water efficiently during winter.
Since no outdoor condenser unit is needed with a geothermal heat pump to exchange heat with outdoor air, everything is located indoors in your utility area or basement. It operates quietly, will not bother nearby neighbors and will not be damaged by playing children or debris from storms and trees.
The basic features available on geothermal heat pumps are similar to super-efficient standard air-to-air heat pumps. The most efficient models use multiple stage compressors to adjust the heating and cooling output to the instantaneous needs of your house. And ECM variable-speed blower motor is a good comfort and efficiency feature. It is also best to install a matching computerized thermostat and central air cleaner.
Send inquiries to:
James Dulley
c/o Detroit Free Press
6906 Royalgreen Drive
Cincinnati, OH 45244
Or go to www.dulley.com.
Garbage Disposal Will Not Turn On (no noise)
OK, before we start with any troubleshooting, I want you to promise me that you will please obey the cardinal rule of "Garbage Disposal Repair". That is you will never put your hand in the hopper (down the drain into the disposal)!
That being said, let's take a look at fixing this vital piece of kitchen equipment.
PROBLEM:
Disposal Will Not Turn On (no noise)
If the disposal will not turn on and it is NOT making a humming sound, then there is an electrical problem.
Disposal Will Not Turn On (no noise)
If the disposal will not turn on and it is NOT making a humming sound, then there is an electrical problem.
- This may seem obvious, but make sure the disposal is plugged in.
- If it is plugged in then press the Reset button found on the bottom of the unit. If it has reset, the button will be popped out.
- If that does not work, check to see if the circuit breaker has tripped and turned off in the electrical service panel.
- If the breaker has not tripped and the reset button is not popped out, then it's either a faulty switch or a faulty garbage disposal. First locate the switch that powers the disposal unit. It should be located on the wall but may be under the sink.
- Turn off the circuit breaker at the service panel which powers the disposal.
- Replace the switch.
- Turn power back on at the service panel and check the disposal for operation.
- If the disposal will still not turn on and makes no noise, the garbage disposal is beyond repair and needs to be replaced.
Garbage Disposal Will Not Turn On (humming noise)
OK, before we start with any troubleshooting, I want you to promise me that you will please obey the cardinal rule of "Garbage Disposal Repair". That is you will never put your hand in the hopper (down the drain into the disposal)!
That being said, let's take a look at fixing this vital piece of kitchen equipment.
That being said, let's take a look at fixing this vital piece of kitchen equipment.
PROBLEM:
Stuck Flywheel / Disposal Will Not Run (makes a humming noise)
If the garbage disposal won't turn on but makes a humming sound when you flip the switch, it won't do that for long. That means you have a stuck flywheel and the reset button on the unit itself or the fuse or circuit breaker in your electrical service panel will trip and turn off very quickly. The flywheel is stuck because something is lodged between it or the impeller(s) and the shredder ring.
- To start the repair, turn off power to the garbage disposal at the electrical service panel.
- Reminder: Don't ever put your hand down into the garbage disposal hopper (grinding chamber).
- Take the offset wrench that came with the disposal unit and insert the wrench into the flywheel turning hole in the bottom of the unit. If you don't have the wrench you can pick one up from the hardware store that sells your garbage disposal.
- Once the wrench is inserted, turn it clockwise to dislodge the stuck impeller or flywheel. When it dislodges, you'll feel the flywheel turn freely.
- Another approach is to try and use a wooden broom-handle or similar wooden object to free the stuck impeller and flywheel from the top of the unit through the drain.
- Place the broom-handle into the hopper and against an impeller. Use leverage to try and free the stuck flywheel. As before, when it dislodges you'll feel the flywheel turn freely.